Isla das Aves; Nick is indicating how short one must be to qualify for the Venezuelan Armada.

Saying goodbye to Falmouth and English harbour was sad for Nick and I. Antigua was our first landfall after crossing the Atlantic, we had caught up with Outnumbered there, met the Coconuts and lots of other inspiring people, launched our foray down-island as far as the Grenadines before returning, and had Lou and Garry visit from Western Australia closely followed by Graeme and Kirsty from London. Two days before our departure the volcano on Montserrat, 16 miles south west of Antigua, erupted, reshaping the coast and putting the gigantic crater on the other side of the mountain. We sailed within 4 miles of the smouldering flow to check it out. Steam poured from the new coastline and great billows of dust burst sky high from the crater fissure 3000 feet above sea level. Sadness turned to awestruck anxiety knowing that the emerald isle gives no warning before she erupts and here we were rollicking past her smoky toes.

In the middle of the Caribbean basin, far from any other land is a tiny sand island called Isla das Aves (bird island). Only one plant grows here, a succulent ground creeper, but amongst its bright green carpet roost thousands of birds. Nick and I decided to stop at the island if at all possible, assuming that such an isolated place would bound to have unspoiled natural wonders, including some big game fish. What we found was quite different. Two years ago the Venezuelan government upgraded its presence on the island. Today 18 navy soldiers are stationed there permanently and carry out a coast guard function effectively increasing Venezuela’s ocean territories by 3-4 hundred miles out into the oil rich Caribbean Sea. Few yachts ever stop there (only one other in 2006 to date). The sea was rolly making it difficult for the two Armada to board and complete our entry paperwork while Pina Colada bucked around on anchor. Nick and I accepted an invitation ashore in their RIB. The commander showed us around the modern four story complex built on stilts above the surf and we were shown a video outlining the work undertaken on the island which includes turtle tagging, geomorphology, radio broadcasting etc. Nick and I were escorted on a walk around the island before a traditional sit down lunch of arapas with the commander who was the only person there who could speak English. An official certificate of visitation was presented to us before we were dinghied back to Pina Colada. Royal treatment for salty yachties passing by! We had a quick uneventful dive near the yacht before putting to sea for three days on route to Aves de Barlovento.