Paul and Lizzie invited us to join them for a day exploring by hire car. We packed a picnic lunch (Baggett and salad) and drove around Basse Terre, the western wing of the imaginary butterfly that makes Guadeloupe’s land mass. The highest peak on the island is the smouldering, rainforest wrapped volcano La Soufriere, at 1467m. The greenery was liquid; we drove up to the warm rock baths tucked into the side of the volcano and walked from there. The rain trickled off our puffing noses as we stepped higher and higher to the windy summit, its views obliterated by swirling misty clouds.