Iles Marquesas

Land was sighted in the dawn rays on the 27th of March, the craggy steep towering mountains of Fatu Hiva. We had just made our best noon to noon run ever: 189 miles over the ground. We caught a bonita as we trolled past Thomosett rock checking for diving potential but the wind was blowing 20 knots, something for the BBQ that night to be accompanied with the first cold beer in 20 days.

Just for the hell of it we sailed the scenic way around to our destination anchorage; what was another couple of hours on twenty days after all? The southern tip of Fatu Hiva has plummeting cliffs, over 600 metres falling into the heavy swells below. Reef doesn't form here because of the cold south equatorial current. The absence of protective reef has prevented the formation of coastal plains. There are two inhabited narrow river valleys on Fatu Hiva, named Omoa and Hanavave bay. Some people feel that Hanavave bay, “the Bay of Virgins” is the most beautiful in Polynesia; numerous huge rounded rock protuberances garrison the verdant steep flanks. Three catamarans were at anchor when we arrived. The holding is very poor and we made three attempts at anchoring. We set about the routine tidy up, putting sail covers on, sheets away etc before diving overboard for a swim. It felt anti-intuitive to let go of the boat. Kids were playing in the surf at the river mouth and a few tin dinghies returned to the small concrete fishing wharf in the evening. It was difficult to sleep for longer than four hours that night.

The following day we dinghied ashore to check in with the Gendarme and use our legs. He wasn’t there so we walked up the valley, up and up through the twisting forest trees to a 200 foot waterfall. We stopped frequently to devour wild mangoes, collect limes and chillies and observe the profusion of flowering plants. We climbed to 600 metres above sea level and took in the amazing views, stopping on the way back to wash the grime off in a crystal clear river lined with clean smooth volcanic boulders before wandering back into the village. We met a lady called Angel who wanted to trade for fruit so we returned with a small half used bottle of perfume, some hair styling product and some crayons. In return we received 3 paw paws, twelve limes, 8 mandarins, a husked coconut and a loaf and a half of fresh bread. That night we paid for not having walked more than 43 feet in the last three weeks.

A new routine is emerging. The morning is set aside for jobs such as scrubbing the hull, mending the spinnaker, replenishing the water supplies etc then the afternoon is spent recreating. On Thursday 29th we took the dinghy the 3.5 miles back to Omoa to check out the bay up close, then around the corner into the face of the south westerly swell. Incredibly, an offshore breeze was spinning the tops back on the big blue walls of water pounding into the rocky shore; Nick was able to surf the fast heavy breakers for a couple of hours before the wind swung and strengthened. On our return we found that a hand-line had been thieved off the deck. Obviously we will have to become a bit wily in these parts.

Day three in French Polynesia we pulled anchor at dawn, sailed past the next nearest island, Mohotani in search of surf (nothing with potential seen) then onto Hiva Oa where we anchored in the rolly harbour of Atuana with seven other yachts, including two of our crossing compatriots. We were promptly invited for drinks by the very sociable and friendly Capitan of 'Blue Stocking', Paul, as were Amanda and Rob from 'Riff Raff' and that evening we shared crossing stories and generally made up for not having anyone new to talk to for so long.

Marg and Warren arrive in 5 more sleeps and in the mean time we have been conducting reconnaissance missions on good anchorages. We have aborted trying to find an outlet for cheap food and drinks as everything is outrageously expensive, e.g a dozen eggs US$7, Case of beer US$75, a flagon of wine US$70. Our afternoon walks have ensured that we are not going hungry. So clever that the French planted mangoes as street trees.